Side note, I had my rear brake go mushy, and after bleeding it several times over the course of a couple of weeks which worked each time but failed after a day or two , I bought a rear master cylinder rebuild kit. Therefore, a master cylinder rebuild would be the next suggestion. Whatever you choose to do, I recommend speed bleeders for your calipers.
It makes the purge process so much easier, unless you always have someone else to do it for you. Yeah I would go with steel-lines. They fairly cheap and provide a much better feel in general.
Make sure you completely bleed the system of air and it should feel a lot better. Possible myth, but I've read about people zip tying the brake lever to the bar overnight to release any stuck air. Google it for info. Brake-Discs Floating Disc. Brake Discs, Rear. Lucas Brake Discs. Racing Brake Discs Front. Racing Brake Disc rear.
Brake-Line Kit, Rear. Brake-Line Kit, front. Hollowscrew For Brake Pipes. Brakepads Organic. Carburetor Kits for motorcycles,. Float needles as OEM replacement for.
HPE chain-kit chain, sprockets. MVXZ2 X-ring chain. Fork Seal Set. Front-Fork Retaining. Friction Plates Sets. First of all, you'll want to locate the bleed nipple on your caliper s.
Each disc that you have has a brake caliper on it, and each caliper will have a bleed nipple. On the SVS, there will be a little rubber cap over the nipple, which itself consists of a screw and locknut.
Remove the cap. Next, use an extended 8mm socket to loosen the nut on the bleed nipple. A little bit of brake fluid will start to come out, so slip the end of your plastic tubing on right away. Here's the fun part.
This is easier with a second person, but definitely do-able alone. Finger-tighten the bleed nipple again, so you don't let any air back up into the tube. Squeeze the brake lever a few times, and then hold it in. Any advice would be great. The first thing you must do before rushing out to buy everything that has been suggested by friends and family is to check the condition of the original front braking system.
Being old school two-pot two-piston calipers, the centre pin is prone to corrosion causing the pads to stick. This corrosion will spread to the pistons and anything else that is metal alloy. Get them stripped, cleaned and assembled with the correct grease and you will notice a huge difference.
These guys have been preparing race and road-going SVs for years. Also, treat the bike to some braided steel brake lines — the original rubber covered lines lose their strength and expand under braking. This leads to reduced brake power at a caliper.
0コメント